When you're really stopping at your limit, you need the theater to be just the right length. Less pockets means less resolution for top stepping. Also, the PAS is much shorter, which will greatly limit the maximum distance between pieces (which means you go slower and place more gear). Well, they could serve the same purpose, but you have less than 1/2 the number of pockets on the PAS. I've heard various arguments for the safety of a PAS over a daisy - which made me wonder if that argument stands true for aiding. Good luck !Ģ0 kN: My understanding is they serve the same general purpose. ![]() I'd recommend the basic setup and if you can't live with that you might try the Yates speed daisies. ![]() I've had 2 partners who swore by the Yates speed daisies. I have a second fifi with a longer cord so I sometimes use 2 fifi's. The trick is to climb up the same ladder with both feet. I do bundle up a shorter 4 step aider on the back of my harness in case I get in to something complicated. I went to this basic system and found it so much less complicated and much faster. Some of the best aid climbers (Ammon Mcneely & Chris Macnamara) go with the classic setup of 2 daisy chains (definitely wouldn't use a pas too long), 2 Yates aiders and a fifi hook. I remember my more experienced partner constantly yelling, "what kind of buffoonery are you up to now?" Always had trouble getting the Metolius fast daisies to release. A constant clusterfeck having to unwind wrapped aiders from the metolius fast daisies. My first wall was with the Metolius fast daisy chains and 4 regular aiders. And best to jack in the lower one in so you can't shock load the cord on the lower piece if the top one blows (think teeth). You need to work on getting good at releasing the trax. The smoothest "adjustable" daisy I've used is a length of 8mm cord and a micro trax. I also note from supertopo that someone recently seems to have fallen out of their ladders on Lurking Fear whilst going daisy-less, and while back cleaning. Although Chris Mac recommends often going daisy-less on C1/2, I don't have the balls. ![]() A fifi good in restricted corners / chimneys as hard to un clip draw. soloing), two daisies a draw and a krab on my belay loop good for easy. I find adjustables good on the steep stuff and when I'm scared (i.e. I suggest you play with everything you can (start down the climbing gym) and expect your systems to evolve with time.īack to the question. However if their legs had been 3inches longer they could have clipped in with 3inch draw on nth and then been 3inches above and tight on n-1. ![]() This means that any correction that just allowed them to clip in from the lower step will be way too loose once they have moved up. When they stand up to the n-1th step they will gain 6 inches of hight (if the steps are 6 inches apart) putting their waist at the top of the ladder. So, one person might (for example) stand in the nth step and their waist is 6inches below the top of the aider. The latter is important as the steps on an aid ladder are fixed. I don't think there is a single answer for this as it depends on the route: how steep / how hardĪnd on you: how experienced / how coordinated / how brave / how tall
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